HardwareArduino

 

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.372 
I had forgotten I'd ordered this. I think I must have done it when I'd had too much wine. Turned up this morning. 10x Atmega328ps and crystals, caps, etc.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.373 In reply to 40898.372 
How much does that work out per complete unit?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.374 In reply to 40898.373 
£1.99 each from the UK.

Me
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 From:  ledlightmake (SUNJIMMY)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.375 In reply to 40898.352 
I've also control  Light in the bedroom
(http://www.ledlightmake.com/led-lamp-c-77_78/e27-led-bulb5w-multicolored-rgb-16-colorwith-remote-control-p-203.html)with MCU(PIC12F675).
ledlightmake.com

APPROVED: 2 May 2015 09:31 by MATT

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.376 
28 days later. No zombies. Wireless sensor still going strong. Should get at least another 2 months from it.

Added some CSS to my boiler interface so looks a little better. No mountains in the screenshot for Pete though.

Me

Attachments:

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 From:  Peter (BOUGHTONP)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.377 In reply to 40898.376 
NoSnowy :C
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Peter (BOUGHTONP)     
40898.378 In reply to 40898.377 
I like snowy mountains. Do you fancy a ski?

Me
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 From:  Peter (BOUGHTONP)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.379 In reply to 40898.378 
Nah, we're just good friends; it already has a partner, and I wouldn't want to get between them.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Peter (BOUGHTONP)     
40898.380 In reply to 40898.379 
You don't want to upset a ski. I hear they can be dangerous and might kill you.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ALL
40898.381 
Well after not sorting the board for my timezone map I decided to do something useful with some of the LEDs. I made a dimable strip to go behind the bed-head. It worked quite well so I made a permanent board. Though they're bright white LEDs so it's a bit clinical.

Controlled via my home automation web remote, which tells a Raspberry Pi to transmit a 433 MHz signal. Different signals give different results. 100%/80%/60%/40%/20%/Off and Up & Down (by 10 units on the PWM scale).

Test breadboard:


Permanent board:
 

It is probably my best soldering attempt to date. Only made one mistake which was easily fixed.

Testing:

Attachments:

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 From:  Serg (NUKKLEAR)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.382 In reply to 40898.381 
I take it it's linked to a g-sensor bolted to the bed and it decides what brightness it shines at depending on... you know...?
 :-O
[...Insert Brain Here...]
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Serg (NUKKLEAR)     
40898.383 In reply to 40898.382 
 (hippo)
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.384 
Well my battery optimising was worth it. My temp sensor has been running for 2.5 months on 2 AAs. I'm not sure if I checked it at the start, I probably did, but since the 24th of April the battery has stayed at 2.9V. It wouldn't make a very interesting graph.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.385 In reply to 40898.384 
How often are you transmitting? Is this using an RF24 transmitter?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.386 In reply to 40898.385 
Yup, using a nRF24L01+. Transmits between every minute and, er, 7 or 8 minutes. Depends if the temp has changed since last check.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.387 
Oh no, it's gone down by 0.1V. Not bad after 3.5 months. Not sure if it would have lasted slightly longer if there wasn't a power outage the day before yesterday and the sensor was trying to send to a switched off Pi for over 24 hours.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ALL
40898.388 
I'm in the process of doing some work in my loft - boarding it and opening up the loft hatch so it's much bigger.

Hatch was been made bigger today, it's massive and maybe a bit too big (nj). Gone from 35cm x 51cm to 78cm x 90cm.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to work the ladders and hatch. Motorised ladders cost an absolute fortune so I'll be going for some regular loft ladders. But a motorised hatch door seems like a reasonable possibility. The hatch will be over 3m high so that's why I like the idea of it being motorised.

I'm thinking an arduino, a motor and 433 MHz receiver (plus 433Mhz 2 button remote).

The door will be opening inwards into the attic, rather than down into the landing space. It will also be able to fall against the wall next to it, rather than open to 180 degrees flat.

Something like:
Code: 
               |
              /|
       Door  / | Wall
            /  |
           /   |
__________/    |


What would be the best sort of motor for this sort of thing? A stepper motor so I can move it a specific distance?

The hatch door will be made out of MDF and will probably be a decent weight.

A simple case of having string/rope attached to the door and winding/unwinding it around a spool?

But with it going past 90 degrees that means I'd need something to get it past the 90 degree point to shut it. That might be difficult to do all that without it slamming and/or putting a huge strain on the motor.

Or I put something in place to prevent it going past 90 degrees and maybe have an electromagnet to hold it open. 
 
Code: 
                  |
          |       |
      Door|__ Post| Wall
          |  |    |
          |  |    |
__________|__|____|


Or I just get a really long post to push it open (yj).
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 From:  graphitone  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.389 In reply to 40898.388 
Could you have the door on the back on the ladder, like this:

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 From:  CHYRON (DSMITHHFX)  
 To:  graphitone     
40898.390 In reply to 40898.389 
Where's his helmet and safety harness?

----
"EPA plan offers all pain, no gain" – President, National Mining Association
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.391 In reply to 40898.388 
Windscreen wiper motor.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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