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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   30 Jan 2015 20:13 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       281 of 542 
40898.281 In reply to 40898.280 
Cool. Lots of wires there :D

I kind of worked out PWM frequencies without using that library. I tried settings the bits of the two registers myself but worked out something wrong, not sure what. Found a website with a list of values to use and set them.

Then I just use analogWrite with the correct bits set and I have a PWM frequency of 3921Hz. It'll be half that if I used an 8MHz device in the atual install though.

And it looks like I can actually get all the pins I want to work correctly.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS    30 Jan 2015 20:23 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      282 of 542 
40898.282 In reply to 40898.281 
Have you got the RGB strips working with the arduino now?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   30 Jan 2015 21:32 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       283 of 542 
40898.283 In reply to 40898.282 
Not yet. I've only tested the small strip with it so far. Need to hack the IR signal too so I can turn it on and off and change colours. And tonight I tested the PWM frequency with a single LED.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   30 Jan 2015 23:57 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       284 of 542 
40898.284 In reply to 40898.282 
And how's your world coming along? Are you going to do a variable hole size drilled wooden panel like the page you linked to before?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   31 Jan 2015 00:04 
 To:  ALL 285 of 542 
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Brown and red look too similar on resistors.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS    31 Jan 2015 00:13 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      286 of 542 
40898.286 In reply to 40898.284 
Still need to wait for a few bits to arrive: protoboard, screw connectors, dip sockets. The code is pretty much done. Comes in at around 20K, so there's room for some extra stuff if want. Though I imagine it'll mainly be on world time setting or all on.

The plan is to basically copy the map I linked with the variable sized holes and use MDF, though the UK isn't very obvious so I might tweak the design. Not bought the MDF yet though.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS    31 Jan 2015 00:15 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      287 of 542 
40898.287 In reply to 40898.284 
Just remembered I attempted to add an IR receiver to do the same as the button but it didn't seem to consistently receive the correct code from the remote I was messing with.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   31 Jan 2015 02:02 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       288 of 542 
40898.288 In reply to 40898.286 
I have a protoboard that came with my Saintmart. Not used it yet. Are the dip sockets for the shift registers?

I kind of feel like I should have some advice for the MDF as I use lots but I can't think of anything right now. Don't breathe it in.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   31 Jan 2015 02:14 
 To:  ALL 289 of 542 
40898.289 
Different PWM frequencies. 31Hz, 122Hz, 490Hz, and 31kHz.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   1 Feb 2015 16:20 
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40898.290 
Got most of the functionality working with my LED controller now. Still testing on a breadboard with R, G and B LEDs. And now an IR phototransistor. I can change colours, fade up and down, and that's about it for now.

Ant: not got any problems with picking up the IR codes from the remote.

I think I'll plug in my small test strip to see how it works with that. Then to hack the control box (good thing I have a spare from when I bought another remote) and get it all working properly.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   1 Feb 2015 19:59 
 To:  ALL 291 of 542 
40898.291 
And here it is working. I might sort it out it saves the current colour to the EEPROM so that it restores it when the power comes on. Or just make it so the lights are off if the power comes back on.

The ones we have now turn back on when the power goes out, even if it was off. Which is silly. If there's a power cut while we're out the lights will turn back on when it comes back.

Red and green frequency is 31kHz, blue is 62kHz.

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS    1 Feb 2015 20:53 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      292 of 542 
40898.292 In reply to 40898.291 
That's pretty cool. I think I might buy an RGB LED strip to play with. I still like the idea of making some sort of ambilight thing for my TV. I think originally I thought it would be a bit too difficult but after messing with arduinos more I should be able to do it.

Today and yesterday have mainly been spent trying to replace the wheel bearings on my car.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   1 Feb 2015 22:16 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       293 of 542 
40898.293 In reply to 40898.292 
I'm pretty happy with how it's working out. Just set it up so it's working with one of my pro minis so I can put it in a small box in the wardrobe to power it. Got the power button working now too, forgot about that one.

I am very impressed with the Arduino. I thought I'd be playing around with the Pi far more. Surprisingly easy to get some complex things working.

Have you fixed your bearings?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   1 Feb 2015 23:26 
 To:  ALL 294 of 542 
40898.294 
The almost completed project. Just need to make the connections to the Arduino more permanent.

First pic is the oroginal controller.
Then controller with the ICs removed and a couple of cables attached.
Third one is all the wires needed for the Arduino. 5V, ground, RGB and the IR signal.
And fourth is it all wired up. Plug in the 12V transformer and it works :D
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   1 Feb 2015 23:28 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      295 of 542 
40898.295 In reply to 40898.294 
And one of the path the traces make for the MOSFETs. Took me a while to work out how they were connected up. Strangely there is no resistor on the red connection.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   1 Feb 2015 23:37 
 To:  ALL 296 of 542 
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And I now have it in the bedroom working. And was it worth it? Definitely. No flickering at all now. Much nicer light.

My colour algorithm needs tweaking though as the colours change a bit when the brightness is changed. White changes to a very greeny colour.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS    2 Feb 2015 08:37 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      297 of 542 
40898.297 In reply to 40898.293 
Not yet. Ended up down the scrap yard buying parts.

What were the controllers on the original control box?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   2 Feb 2015 09:51 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       298 of 542 
40898.298 In reply to 40898.297 
If you mean the ICs I removed one was some Atmel chip and I assume the other (no markings on it) was the EEPROM.

Actually not so sure about that. I guessed it was that based on another site but the FET gate pins are connected to it.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS    2 Feb 2015 12:49 
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)      299 of 542 
40898.299 In reply to 40898.293 
Operation wheel bearings has entered day 3.

The chip could be an AT Tiny, I wonder if it could be reprogrammed with better software.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)   2 Feb 2015 13:12 
 To:  ANT_THOMAS       300 of 542 
40898.300 In reply to 40898.299 
Problems doing the bearings or needed parts? Are they easy to remove?

I'm pretty sure it was an ATTiny chip but can't remember which and I can't see from the pictures on my phone. I think part of the problem is it only has 2 PWM channels. I assume that other chip is a shift register or something similar.

Should be easy enough to repgoram it by connecting up the correct pins and using a programmer. Can the opposite be done? Read what's on there and reverse engineer it?
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