HardwareArduino

 

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.268 In reply to 40898.265 
ShiftPWM allows you to choose the PWM frequency so the other library isn't needed.

It seems anything over "75" stops any flickering. I had it at 150.

I'll try 3 shift registers tomorrow.
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.269 In reply to 40898.266 
Currently yes, but I'd have to hand code it and I think I'd go insane. Next job is improving the software. A lot.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.270 In reply to 40898.269 
I can wait til the software is better. Can you play the theme from Project X on the Amiga?

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.271 In reply to 40898.268 
Aha. Handy. Is 150Hz enough with them dimmed? Think it's more noticeable in a dark room too. Lots of useful libraries for the Arduino.

I'm still waiting for my two Nanos. I have a USBASP programmer which I'll use with my Pro Mini for now. Also waiting for a FTDI adapter which will be an easier connection than the USBASP. Gonna have a play with the nRF24L01 transceivers. Did you add a capacitor to the power connections on yours?

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.272 In reply to 40898.269 
I asked on the Arduino forums about the bits in that LED controller. They are FETs and rated at 2.8A. Must be heat dissipating pads.

Me
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.273 In reply to 40898.270 
If you give me a midi file of it.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.274 In reply to 40898.273 
I will try and find one and give it to you (YJ)

I wired up my LED strip the other night using a BC547. I'm sure I had it connected right but the LEDs didn't respond to the PWM unless I swapped the transistor around the other way. Any ideas if my circuit is correct?

Me

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.275 In reply to 40898.274 
Different transistors definitely have different pinouts in case you looked at a generic schematic.
 
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.276 In reply to 40898.275 
I got the pin layout from the eBay listing so it should be right. And I used the same ones with my clock with no problems.

Me
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.277 In reply to 40898.274 
I'll confess to not really knowing anything about transistors.

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  └───┘      └───┘                              
If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.278 In reply to 40898.277 
Not good enough :P

Turns out the eBay listing had it wrong. The tranny should be the other way round.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.279 
I had another play with my LED strip using all 3 colours this time. I had a couple of issues with the PWM library. Pin 11 would only go high or low, nothing in between. Pin 3 (same timer as pin 11) didn't turn on at the same value as the other pins but did output PWM.

I started reading about manually setting the registers. So confusing. I kind of understand what needs to be done just now how.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ALL
40898.280 
3 shift registers now working.

15 "LED" PWM outputs across 3 shift registers to check they're all communicating correctly. Max will be 24 covering all timezones.



Mains adapter seems to work well too. Initially I thought it was causing issues but I forgot to ground the DC-in to the Arduino.

A BH1750 light intensity board arrived too. Whilst it works great I'm not sure I like what it gives me. The LDR on an analog in pin gives a range of 0-1023, where the outputs seem to make sense, but with the BH1750 you get between 0 - 65534, with daylight only being around 100, now in the late afternoon with the light on it gives ~50. I could only get it to max out at 54612 by shining the flash on my phone at it. An LDR would probably be easier to fit somewhere too.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.281 In reply to 40898.280 
Cool. Lots of wires there :D

I kind of worked out PWM frequencies without using that library. I tried settings the bits of the two registers myself but worked out something wrong, not sure what. Found a website with a list of values to use and set them.

Then I just use analogWrite with the correct bits set and I have a PWM frequency of 3921Hz. It'll be half that if I used an 8MHz device in the atual install though.

And it looks like I can actually get all the pins I want to work correctly.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.282 In reply to 40898.281 
Have you got the RGB strips working with the arduino now?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.283 In reply to 40898.282 
Not yet. I've only tested the small strip with it so far. Need to hack the IR signal too so I can turn it on and off and change colours. And tonight I tested the PWM frequency with a single LED.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.284 In reply to 40898.282 
And how's your world coming along? Are you going to do a variable hole size drilled wooden panel like the page you linked to before?

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.285 
Brown and red look too similar on resistors.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.286 In reply to 40898.284 
Still need to wait for a few bits to arrive: protoboard, screw connectors, dip sockets. The code is pretty much done. Comes in at around 20K, so there's room for some extra stuff if want. Though I imagine it'll mainly be on world time setting or all on.

The plan is to basically copy the map I linked with the variable sized holes and use MDF, though the UK isn't very obvious so I might tweak the design. Not bought the MDF yet though.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.287 In reply to 40898.284 
Just remembered I attempted to add an IR receiver to do the same as the button but it didn't seem to consistently receive the correct code from the remote I was messing with.
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