HardwareArduino

 

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.224 In reply to 40898.223 
Yes. It has a 12V input, an IR sensor and a 4 pin output to control the LEDs.

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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.225 In reply to 40898.222 
Those pads look like they're meant to aid hear dissipation from the transistors.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.226 In reply to 40898.225 
I did wonder that but isn't the component supposed to sit in the white square? Looks like a bigger part could go there.

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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.227 In reply to 40898.226 
A bigger part *could* go there (as in, there's space for a bigger part) but that doesn't mean a bigger part *has* to go there. 

It's pretty common when designing a PCB to tweak the design so that a range of different component packages can fit in, depending on what stock you have in/what's currently cheap to buy. Saves you redesigning the PCB every time you change supplier.

I'd still guess that those big pads are just to make for better heat dissipation. 
 

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.228 In reply to 40898.226 
This guy shows a few good examples of simple layout changes to make your boards more flexible:

http://www.robotroom.com/PCB-Layout-Tips.html

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.229 In reply to 40898.227 
They should be able to handle 2A each (the sticker on the box says it's rated up to 6A) so they probably will generate a bit of heat so you're probably right.

Interesting site about the PCB design. I'll have another look at that later .

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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.230 In reply to 40898.229 
I only started looking into PCB design last week, never made one before. Want to design an interface board for my floppy organ to make it a bit neater.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  koswix     
40898.231 In reply to 40898.228 
I like that page, even if it's just because everything looks really neat and tidy.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  koswix     
40898.232 In reply to 40898.228 
I've clicked about a bit more and it's made me want to design a PCB.

Are these things cheap to get made?
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.233 In reply to 40898.232 
I think the answer is no from a quick search. £80-100 seems to be the figure for the size I might want.
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 From:  CHYRON (DSMITHHFX)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.234 In reply to 40898.184 
Don't pull that out at the airport.

----
New giveaways: “Learn Ruby the Hard Way”
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.235 In reply to 40898.232 
There's a few options for making the PCB.

You can order them from a PCB fab place, but it really doesn't make financial sense unless you're doing a fairly big run of boards. I read a while ago about a new service someone was setting up getting small batches done via China for pretty cheap (compared to normal prices, anyway). Can't remember what it was called.

Making your own: Simplest way is toner transfer to transfer the layout to a copper board, and then you chemically etch the rest of the copper off. Can be hit and miss (I've heard) with small traces - depends on your print quality/transfer quality.

An interesting alternative is to use a CNC mill to remove the unneeded copper, with precision being governed by the quality of your CNC machine.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  koswix     
40898.236 In reply to 40898.235 
(the other other method is to be at Uni, where they have proper PCB manufacturing kit that can do plated through-holes, multi layers, masks, type etc. )

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  koswix     
40898.237 In reply to 40898.236 
I might get you to make me one then....!

Otherwise I saw the toner transfer one, getting the chemicals to do the job should be easy for me. Might give that a go.
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.238 In reply to 40898.237 
Sadly I don't get direct access to it, have a friendly lecturer who's happy to get stuff done for me for my silly projects but not sure he'd be happy to extend that to "this guy in met on the Internet."...

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.239 In reply to 40898.237 
How big so you want it? An American site doing 3 copies of a 2 layer board for $5 per square inch + $5 delivery shipping.

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.240 In reply to 40898.239 
I was thinking 20cm x 15cm. That's probably on the big side.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.241 In reply to 40898.240 
That'd work out pretty expensive then. I suppose even a few inches each side wouldnt be cheap. Could you squash it into 1"x1"? ;)

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  CHYRON (DSMITHHFX)     
40898.242 In reply to 40898.234 
Could be fun to try it. Might depend if I'm in the mood for a full body search or not.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.243 In reply to 40898.240 
I've just been playing with the PWM output with my LED strips. I cut off a small section to test with the Uno.

There's a library called PWM which lets you choose any frequency. I set the frequency to 2000Hz and the flicker at the lowest brightness was almost undetectable. At 20,000Hz (I didn't test anything in between) it had completely gone.

If you have problems with flicker give that a go. I'm now thinking it might be worth setting up an Arduino to control the lights as I don't really like the flicker at low brightness and it would be nice to get rid of it.

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