HardwareArduino

 

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.215 In reply to 40898.213 
12V power from the battery pack and a TIP120 transistor for each strip.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.216 In reply to 40898.215 
Gotcha. 

My LD strips in th bdroom dfinitly flickr whn thy are dimmd. Not too noticabl whn looking at them but if you move you eyes around or wav things in front of thm it's easy to spot.

(Not to Milko: th "E" on my laptop kyboard has stoppd working proprly so all my input mthods ar now unrliabl :O )

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.217 In reply to 40898.216 
Cut a few bits of the LED strips and played with those.

Need to wait for the Shift Registers to arrive to really test things properly.

Added a push button to change between modes

World clock
Fading
Pre-set brightness

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.218 In reply to 40898.217 
Cool, nice work. Did the smaller strips work better with the battery powering them? Couldn't see the flickering in the video. I hadn't even thought about using those strips with the Arduino.

Have you got a resistor connected through that button? No need for it if you set the pin as INPUT_PULLUP.

Actually how noticeable is the flicker when the strips are dimmed low? I'm wondering if maybe using one of these could make my bedroom lights less flickery, the PWM frequency is around 500Hz.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.219 In reply to 40898.218 
Still flickering, but I'll see what they're actually like when I get the shift registers and mains power supply. Though I would've thought that batteries would give a smoother DC supply in comparison to a mains adapter doing a conversion.

I am currently using a resistor as I've stolen a bit of the code from elsewhere to switch between modes.

I want to make the button press also kill the current loop as well as change mode because currently it has to wait for the existing loop to finish then the mode changes. Problem with that is I might have a decent length delay of maybe 60 seconds on the timezone mode to prevent too much changing of intensity due to the LDR. Waiting upto 60 seconds to change from the timezone mode would be annoying.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.220 In reply to 40898.219 
Is it just the PWM flicker, not there when brighter? I bought a LED driver for my lights. It came with a shitty transformer that made a horrible buzzing sound and lots of people on Amazon had said the transformer had blown up. I don't really know if I needed a LED driver with the lights or a normal transformer would have been ok with the bits that come with them.

The INPUT_PULLUP works the same but the values for detecting are opposite, so low for closed and high for open so you'd have to swap them if using someone's code with a pulldown resistor.

You probably want a timer/counter instead of a delay. Check each time the loop function runs that a certain time has passed and change values or do something. That way you can also check button presses regularly. If that makes sense.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.221 
Fixed the laptop. A bit of insulation from one of the wires had lodged itself under the E key.

I opened up the control box for my lights and that had an Atmel chip in it. It also has huge solder pads for the 3 transistors but the one soldered to the pads are tiny and only just touch the corners.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.222 In reply to 40898.221 
Here's a pic

Me

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.223 In reply to 40898.222 
Can you unplug the lights from the control box?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.224 In reply to 40898.223 
Yes. It has a 12V input, an IR sensor and a 4 pin output to control the LEDs.

Me
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.225 In reply to 40898.222 
Those pads look like they're meant to aid hear dissipation from the transistors.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.226 In reply to 40898.225 
I did wonder that but isn't the component supposed to sit in the white square? Looks like a bigger part could go there.

Me
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.227 In reply to 40898.226 
A bigger part *could* go there (as in, there's space for a bigger part) but that doesn't mean a bigger part *has* to go there. 

It's pretty common when designing a PCB to tweak the design so that a range of different component packages can fit in, depending on what stock you have in/what's currently cheap to buy. Saves you redesigning the PCB every time you change supplier.

I'd still guess that those big pads are just to make for better heat dissipation. 
 

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.228 In reply to 40898.226 
This guy shows a few good examples of simple layout changes to make your boards more flexible:

http://www.robotroom.com/PCB-Layout-Tips.html

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  koswix     
40898.229 In reply to 40898.227 
They should be able to handle 2A each (the sticker on the box says it's rated up to 6A) so they probably will generate a bit of heat so you're probably right.

Interesting site about the PCB design. I'll have another look at that later .

Me
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.230 In reply to 40898.229 
I only started looking into PCB design last week, never made one before. Want to design an interface board for my floppy organ to make it a bit neater.

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│ │          │ ││  ││ │   ┌─┐                   
│ │          └─┼┤  └┴─┴───┘ │                   
│ │           ─┘│           │                   
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  │   │      │   │                              
  │   │      │   │                              
  └───┘      └───┘                              
If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  koswix     
40898.231 In reply to 40898.228 
I like that page, even if it's just because everything looks really neat and tidy.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  koswix     
40898.232 In reply to 40898.228 
I've clicked about a bit more and it's made me want to design a PCB.

Are these things cheap to get made?
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.233 In reply to 40898.232 
I think the answer is no from a quick search. £80-100 seems to be the figure for the size I might want.
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 From:  CHYRON (DSMITHHFX)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.234 In reply to 40898.184 
Don't pull that out at the airport.

----
New giveaways: “Learn Ruby the Hard Way”
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