HardwareArduino

 

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.201 In reply to 40898.200 
It works. Amazing. At first I thought something was wrong but I forgot to adjust the contrast. This will make LCD connections so much easier and quicker, and probably reliable.

It took far longer to make than I thought it would though.

Me
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 From:  99% of gargoyles look like (MR_BASTARD)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.202 In reply to 40898.200 
The banana peel's a nice touch. Is it just for decoration, or does it function when you wire it up?

truffy.gifbastard by name
bastard by nature

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  99% of gargoyles look like (MR_BASTARD)     
40898.203 In reply to 40898.202 
I use it for wiping off the flux after soldering.

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.204 In reply to 40898.200 
That reminds me, I could do with some female header pins.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.205 In reply to 40898.204 
You're welcome. I might need some more soon. Might order ssome right angle ones as well.

Me
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  ALL
40898.206 
Making a floppy organ. I know it's bindun etc. but I still think they're pretty cool.

Got a bunch of drives from my brothers work and just started working how to play with them.

So far got the stepping and direction sussed, so that's nice as that's basically all I need. Just need to get my head around interrupts to drive multiple drives at once.

Also, it's not being driven by an Arduino: it's using an mbed which is a cool little arm based Dev board.

It lives!: http://youtu.be/PoT8VbaLp4g

Incidentally, the lecturer, who let's me use the lab space for silly projects, his first proper job after graduating was to design a floppy disc controller IC at Siemens (for Western Digital, strangely enough). He was dead excited at seeing my stack of floppy drives (yes, john) but then seemed a bit disappointed that none of them had his chip in them.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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 From:  graphitone  
 To:  koswix     
40898.207 In reply to 40898.206 
I think your organ needs a little tuning. That sounds horrible.
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  graphitone     
40898.208 In reply to 40898.207 
Definitely needs tuning. That was just random frequency/button pressing.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.

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 From:  graphitone  
 To:  koswix     
40898.209 In reply to 40898.208 
<cynic>

So, a top ten hit then?

</cynic>
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 From:  koswix  
 To:  graphitone     
40898.210 In reply to 40898.209 
I wont accept anything less than number 1.

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If Feds call you and say something bad on me, it may prove what I said are truth, they are afraid of it.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.211 
Kos for number 1 :D

I now have this:


connected to this:


so I can fly my quadcopter using my Taranis! Amazing stuff the Arduinos can do :D

I will get around to doing a better job of the wiring, making it a more permanent arrangement so I can attach it to my transmitter without felling like all the wires are going to snap off.

The Taranis powers a 3.3V regulator which powers the Mini and the Transceiver. Little voltage divider with 2 resistors to drop the PPM output of the transmitter to a safe level. And a USBASP device to flash a hex file.

Me

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ALL
40898.212 
My parts from China are trickling in.

White LED strips and transistors arrived today which gave me something to play with.

A quick PWM fading test



Then adding them to thr timed and LDR control LEDs.

The LED strips flicker a bit too much when dimmed. Not sure if that's because they are being powered by the batteries, the strips are too long or because they struggle with the low PWM load.

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.213 In reply to 40898.212 
Awesome. I like fading LEDs :)

What do you have in between the arduino and LEDs? Is that an LED driver or sommat? 

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.214 
And here is a video of my X4 controlled with my Taranis


Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.215 In reply to 40898.213 
12V power from the battery pack and a TIP120 transistor for each strip.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.216 In reply to 40898.215 
Gotcha. 

My LD strips in th bdroom dfinitly flickr whn thy are dimmd. Not too noticabl whn looking at them but if you move you eyes around or wav things in front of thm it's easy to spot.

(Not to Milko: th "E" on my laptop kyboard has stoppd working proprly so all my input mthods ar now unrliabl :O )

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.217 In reply to 40898.216 
Cut a few bits of the LED strips and played with those.

Need to wait for the Shift Registers to arrive to really test things properly.

Added a push button to change between modes

World clock
Fading
Pre-set brightness

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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.218 In reply to 40898.217 
Cool, nice work. Did the smaller strips work better with the battery powering them? Couldn't see the flickering in the video. I hadn't even thought about using those strips with the Arduino.

Have you got a resistor connected through that button? No need for it if you set the pin as INPUT_PULLUP.

Actually how noticeable is the flicker when the strips are dimmed low? I'm wondering if maybe using one of these could make my bedroom lights less flickery, the PWM frequency is around 500Hz.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.219 In reply to 40898.218 
Still flickering, but I'll see what they're actually like when I get the shift registers and mains power supply. Though I would've thought that batteries would give a smoother DC supply in comparison to a mains adapter doing a conversion.

I am currently using a resistor as I've stolen a bit of the code from elsewhere to switch between modes.

I want to make the button press also kill the current loop as well as change mode because currently it has to wait for the existing loop to finish then the mode changes. Problem with that is I might have a decent length delay of maybe 60 seconds on the timezone mode to prevent too much changing of intensity due to the LDR. Waiting upto 60 seconds to change from the timezone mode would be annoying.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.220 In reply to 40898.219 
Is it just the PWM flicker, not there when brighter? I bought a LED driver for my lights. It came with a shitty transformer that made a horrible buzzing sound and lots of people on Amazon had said the transformer had blown up. I don't really know if I needed a LED driver with the lights or a normal transformer would have been ok with the bits that come with them.

The INPUT_PULLUP works the same but the values for detecting are opposite, so low for closed and high for open so you'd have to swap them if using someone's code with a pulldown resistor.

You probably want a timer/counter instead of a delay. Check each time the loop function runs that a certain time has passed and change values or do something. That way you can also check button presses regularly. If that makes sense.

Me
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