PCBmedo/ESP8266

From: ANT_THOMAS13 Feb 2016 12:19
To: koswix 1 of 111
Maybe best aimed at Kos unless anyone else has designed and made PCBs?

Attempting my first PCB design which will hold an ESP8266 module, DS18B20 temperature sensor, AMS1117-3.3V regulator and a mini-usb connector.

Nothing too advanced. I found a place that does ~10 5cmx5cm 2 layer PCBs for $14 (http://dirtypcbs.com/). If there's cheaper I'd like to know.

Can anyone see anything wrong with the layout? Or more importantly the routing?

It certainly needs a bit of tidying up and tracks straightening, but so far I think the layout should work. It has passed the Fritzing DRC check.

I've made it possible to use either a premade ds18b20 module or bare sensor and resistor. I might break out the GPIO2 pin.

EDITED: 28 Mar 2016 21:37 by ANT_THOMAS
From: koswix13 Feb 2016 13:02
To: ANT_THOMAS 2 of 111
Not done much pcb design, but the general rules I was taught to follow are basically:

1. Think about cooling, if there's anything that's going to get hot position it sensibly. Remember that the temperature /current rating for components may be based on having forced air cooling - check the data sheet! You can sometimes use the pcb as a kind of heating for ICs etc. Have a read of http://www.electronicproducts.com/Thermal_Management/Heat_Sinks_and_Thermal_Materials/PCB-cooling_techniques_and_strategies_for_IC_packages.aspx

2. Breakout every pin you can, you'll thank yourself later. Add test points and plenty of ground pins just in case.

3. Just because you /can/ make it tiny doesn't mean you should - may be tempting to get tiny boards because of the price, but make sure they're useable /solderable/mountable etc.

Seed studio always gets good reviews from the guys I know who do this stuff, probably not quite as cheap as your link but quality seems to be fairly high and consistent.

EDITED: 13 Feb 2016 13:03 by KOSWIX
From: ANT_THOMAS13 Feb 2016 13:18
To: koswix 3 of 111
I've now switched the sensors to GPIO2 and added pins for GPIO0 because that is used for flashing the firmware.

Also adding another couple of Vin and Gnd headers.
From: ANT_THOMAS13 Feb 2016 17:14
To: koswix 4 of 111
$9.90 from Seeed Studio :D

edit: plus shipping it comes to about the same.

Or about $12 elsewhere.

Either way, less than £1/board.
EDITED: 13 Feb 2016 17:25 by ANT_THOMAS
From: JonCooper14 Feb 2016 08:28
To: ANT_THOMAS 5 of 111
I used to do a lot of PCB work back in the 80s and we would never have used right angles on tracks then, most of our traces were very curvy lines. Looking at a few modern boards 45o angles seems to be the thing now. I can't remember exactly why. 
From: Chris (CHRISSS)14 Feb 2016 09:31
To: JonCooper 6 of 111
Would the electrons bounce off the corners and end up going in the opposite direction?
From: koswix14 Feb 2016 09:47
To: ANT_THOMAS 7 of 111
Ridiculously cheap, as long as you're not in a rush.
From: ANT_THOMAS14 Feb 2016 09:52
To: koswix 8 of 111
Very tempted to order a set before the parts have even arrived. A little bit of a risk considering I don't even know if the parts will work as I want.
From: koswix14 Feb 2016 09:55
To: JonCooper 9 of 111
That's a bloody good point, I vaguely remember being told that once (possibly in first year), but never really thought about it again.

Just done some reading and seems it's actually perfectly fine for digital signals (up to about 2 GPS anyway), but can be pretty devastating for analogue.

http://www.sigcon.com/Pubs/edn/bigbadbend.htm

http://www.ti.com/lit/ml/sloa089/sloa089.pdf

I haven't done any multilayer boards, but when I looked at Ant's design I did wonder about interference between the traces running on top of each other. Decided it probably wasn't going to be an issue on that board, however I didn't think at all about capacitance. That may have a much bigger impact. There's a method for calculating the parasitic capacitance in the second link there, might be worth working out what it would be and seeing what impact that would have on the design.
From: koswix14 Feb 2016 09:57
To: ANT_THOMAS 10 of 111
(giggle) do it. At worst you'll have some nice looking book marks.
From: JonCooper14 Feb 2016 14:24
To: koswix 11 of 111
For a board that simple it would be pretty easy to just make sure the traces weren't on top of each other anyway - no worries either way then. 
From: Ben (BENLUMLEY) 7 Mar 2016 12:04
To: ANT_THOMAS 12 of 111
what are you making?
From: ANT_THOMAS 7 Mar 2016 20:00
To: Ben (BENLUMLEY) 13 of 111
That would be a wifi temperature sensor using an esp8266 module.
From: koswix 7 Mar 2016 22:58
To: ANT_THOMAS 14 of 111
I'm going to try laser etching a pcb (Well, the mask anyway, still needs to be dumped in ferric chloride to remove the copper) tomorrow. No vias or through hole plating but should be good enough for my needs.
From: ANT_THOMAS 7 Mar 2016 23:12
To: koswix 15 of 111
I should have just ordered the PCBs rather than wait for the parts that still haven't arrived.
From: Ben (BENLUMLEY) 8 Mar 2016 00:07
To: ANT_THOMAS 16 of 111
that's what i thought... i keep meaning to get around to making a few of these to monitor the house + feed back the data to somewhere.... are you battery powering them? (I'm fairly sure the circuit diagram doesn't tell me this... )

be interested to see how you get on (i'll notice your reply next time i swing by in 2 years time no doubt!)
From: koswix 8 Mar 2016 01:30
To: ANT_THOMAS 17 of 111
Gah. I have about a hundred quids worth of stuff floating around somewhere. Need a hyperloop to China :C
From: Chris (CHRISSS) 8 Mar 2016 01:41
To: koswix 18 of 111
Every building should have a mini hyperloop for deliveries, linked to everywhere else in the world so items can be sent straight to your home quickly.
From: ANT_THOMAS 8 Mar 2016 09:39
To: Ben (BENLUMLEY) 19 of 111
I've currently already got sensors in various places using Arduinos+nRF24 transceivers+ds18b20 temp sensors. They make up the temperature part of my central heating setup. They're powered by USB supplies. Not made anything that is low-power enough to run long enough off batteries, though that would be the ideal situation, but plugging them in isn't an issue where I've got them located.

Just thought I'd give the ESP8266 modules a go because they're dirt cheap and my wifi network is better than the nRF24 system. Hopefully they'll have better range and reliability. 
From: Ben (BENLUMLEY) 8 Mar 2016 12:11
To: ANT_THOMAS 20 of 111
cool; what do you do with the data ? send it somewhere? and how does it control heating.... made something?