Arduino

From: ANT_THOMAS22 Feb 2015 21:46
To: ALL346 of 542
I've finished the board. But it's not working properly :C

The second and third shift registers aren't working. They seem to cause the LEDs to be full brightness . I've checked the wiring but I think I need to check again with a fresh mind. Though I did read something about communication issues across shift registers with poor wiring.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Feb 2015 20:18
To: ANT_THOMAS 347 of 542
Any luck with it?
From: ANT_THOMAS25 Feb 2015 12:24
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 348 of 542
Not had chance (been bothered) to have a proper sit down with it. Bought a cellulose decorating sponge the other day, so I finally have sponge!
From: fixrman26 Feb 2015 13:53
To: ANT_THOMAS 349 of 542
Removing all of that multi-coloured capellini laying all over the board should help a lot.
From: ANT_THOMAS26 Feb 2015 14:25
To: fixrman 350 of 542
It needs to taste good though!
From: fixrman26 Feb 2015 14:37
To: ANT_THOMAS 351 of 542
Arduino... The taste you have been looking for.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)25 Mar 2015 01:20
To: ALL352 of 542
It seems the step up reg might not be the best way after all. Either that or the Pro Mini is consuming more power than I realise. Got about a week from the last set of batteries.

New plan is to drop the clock speed so it can run at 1.8V and switch the step up regulator on when the temperature is read. The sensor needs 3V.

I've also ordered a couple of Atmega328p chips to make a barebones board.

And my Nanos have /finally/ arrived. Got one of them controlling my bedroom LEDs now. Borrowed the mini that I'd set up to do it before.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)25 Mar 2015 22:04
To: ALL353 of 542
Version 0.2 done. Hoping to get far more battery life out of this one. I have a little test module running just sending it's battery state every 2 minutes and after 3 days it's only dropped ~0.004V

Moved a couple of cables around on the board, couple of optimisations to the code so it only sends if the temp has changed (or every 10 minutes). Switching the power to the radio and temp sensor off completely when sleeping. Only problem is the DS18B20 requires a little time to start up and read the temperature so it's running for almost 1 second when it wakes up.

And it /should/ work all the way down to 1.8V as it's now running at 4MHz. I'm surprised the radio works as I read it can be fussy with timings.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2015 22:09 by CHRISSS
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 02:38
To: ALL354 of 542
I just built this. Going to use it for testing various methods of powering my devices. Quick swap of a couple of leads and I can change between battery or step up or switched from an output.
EDITED: 26 Mar 2015 02:39 by CHRISSS
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 11:43
To: ALL355 of 542
Well that's no good. The temp module's battery is dropping quickly again. I estimate maybe 6 days from it. Thought it would do better. Think I might attach an LED to it so I can see how long it's waking for. Unfortunately pin 13 doesn't work because the SPI uses it.
From: ANT_THOMAS26 Mar 2015 11:56
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 356 of 542
I bought an ATMega328p chip a while back to try and make a barebones board but couldn't get it working. Also, the price of the parts was far more than buying a Nano or Pro Mini so it seemed a little pointless.

I have seen some people running strip down boards off button cells for a very long time, usually only transmitting something occasionally though.

I might try a 433 MHz transmitter on a temp sensor setup to see how well that works.

http://jeelabs.org/tag/lowpower/
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 12:31
To: ANT_THOMAS 357 of 542
I think it /should/ be easy to get working at 8MHz. Shouldn't need many components, maybe just a cap. Maybe not so easy to sort out the boot loader. It worked out slightly cheaper to buy the chip than a Pro Mini, about 20p I think. Amazing they can sell a fully assembled board for only slightly more. Maybe the DIPs are more expensive.

I have another Pro Mini just sending it's battery voltage. That should last months. So something up with the other one. Either somethring to do with the temp sensor or the Mini.
From: koswix26 Mar 2015 12:31
To: ALL358 of 542
Is there a less power hungry way to read the temperature? What about a pressure sensor in a sealed tube and use P1/T1 = P2/T2 to sovle from a reference temp?
From: ANT_THOMAS26 Mar 2015 12:40
To: koswix 359 of 542
I imagine it's the wireless transmitting of the data which uses more power out of everything.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 13:25
To: koswix 360 of 542
(I think) The problem is the sensor itself. It needs at least 3V so I'm using a step up to increase the battery voltage. I'm switching the power off to it when the Arduino goes sleep. When it powers on again I get a temp of 85C unless I delay the reading by about half a second, so it's staying awake too long each cycle. The actual sensor uses very little.

I wonder if leaving it on would be better. Will leaving the step up on waste much? My other option is to switch the sensor on, go to sleep for 0.5-1 second, wake up, read temp.

I think I'll remove the temp sensor, just send the voltage, and see if it is the temp sensing that is draining the battery.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 14:24
To: koswix 361 of 542
Or I could just lick my finger and point it in the air. Or is that for wind direction?
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 16:45
To: ALL362 of 542
Stupid me. Change delay to powerdown .
From: Chris (CHRISSS)27 Mar 2015 07:48
To: ALL363 of 542
Didn't even help a little bit. Exactly the same drop in volatte. Need to do some investigating.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)27 Mar 2015 13:14
To: ALL364 of 542
Graphs!

I switched off the temp sensor this morning. It is now just sending 20C every 80 seconds. Doing exactly the same as my battery test module and the battery use for both is completely different.

The green line is the one with the sensor, the red is (roughly) the other module.

Not sure what's going on there.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)27 Mar 2015 21:21
To: ALL365 of 542
Do you know what? I think it's the Arduino that's the problem, not the circuit/code. Maybe the way I removed the voltage regulator or cut the LED trace. Must be some leaking current somewhere.

I have another module running off a different 3.3V step up. Not switching power off to anything. And so far the voltage is steady. I removed the LED but the reg is still there.

Not had it running long enough to work out how long it's likely to last yet.
EDITED: 27 Mar 2015 21:21 by CHRISSS