Arduino

From: Chris (CHRISSS)13 Feb 2015 10:53
To: ANT_THOMAS 337 of 542
Haha. Some things look so easy when other people do them :) Got a picture of it?

Definitely use a sponge. And if you have a pointy tip get a chisel type instead. Makes it much easier to transfer the heat.
From: ANT_THOMAS13 Feb 2015 11:05
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 338 of 542
Got a pretty bog standard pointy tipped iron.

No picture as I got annoyed and burnt my thumb :(
From: graphitone13 Feb 2015 11:28
To: ANT_THOMAS 339 of 542
Ace biscuits. Wonder if anyone's done something similar for moon phases or even an orrery? I'll have a Google at lunchtime.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)13 Feb 2015 12:30
To: ANT_THOMAS 340 of 542
Ouch. Electric shocks and burns. Dangerous equailment you're playing with.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)13 Feb 2015 12:49
To: graphitone 341 of 542
How about 2 clocks that orbit each other. One of the earth showing the light levels around the world and another for the moons phases.
From: ANT_THOMAS13 Feb 2015 13:12
To: ALL342 of 542
I'm trying to sort the map I'm going to use.

The original has this as the plan



But I don't think Europe or the UK is detailed enough so I've knocked up this which is a bit more detailed. Hopefully it's not too difficult to actually drill. It'll be a lot more holes.



Though this might be better as a compromise


 
EDITED: 13 Feb 2015 13:26 by ANT_THOMAS
From: Chris (CHRISSS)14 Feb 2015 00:55
To: ANT_THOMAS 343 of 542
That looks like far too many holes to drill (UYM,J)

I did consider counting them on the way up yo Stoke, going to see Top Gear Live in Liverpool tomorrow, but I decided against it. Been dragged out for drinks with my drunk sister and friends. And they've all desserted me for the toilet.
From: ANT_THOMAS15 Feb 2015 18:13
To: ALL344 of 542
Started soldering the main board.

So far I think I've done a reasonable job, but it's only the easy bits. Felt like I was cheating using the long pins of the transistors to make things easier!
From: ANT_THOMAS15 Feb 2015 22:17
To: ALL345 of 542
So far I've learnt that dip sockets are quite easy to solder, female pin headers are an absolute pain.
From: ANT_THOMAS22 Feb 2015 21:46
To: ALL346 of 542
I've finished the board. But it's not working properly :C

The second and third shift registers aren't working. They seem to cause the LEDs to be full brightness . I've checked the wiring but I think I need to check again with a fresh mind. Though I did read something about communication issues across shift registers with poor wiring.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Feb 2015 20:18
To: ANT_THOMAS 347 of 542
Any luck with it?
From: ANT_THOMAS25 Feb 2015 12:24
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 348 of 542
Not had chance (been bothered) to have a proper sit down with it. Bought a cellulose decorating sponge the other day, so I finally have sponge!
From: fixrman26 Feb 2015 13:53
To: ANT_THOMAS 349 of 542
Removing all of that multi-coloured capellini laying all over the board should help a lot.
From: ANT_THOMAS26 Feb 2015 14:25
To: fixrman 350 of 542
It needs to taste good though!
From: fixrman26 Feb 2015 14:37
To: ANT_THOMAS 351 of 542
Arduino... The taste you have been looking for.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)25 Mar 2015 01:20
To: ALL352 of 542
It seems the step up reg might not be the best way after all. Either that or the Pro Mini is consuming more power than I realise. Got about a week from the last set of batteries.

New plan is to drop the clock speed so it can run at 1.8V and switch the step up regulator on when the temperature is read. The sensor needs 3V.

I've also ordered a couple of Atmega328p chips to make a barebones board.

And my Nanos have /finally/ arrived. Got one of them controlling my bedroom LEDs now. Borrowed the mini that I'd set up to do it before.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)25 Mar 2015 22:04
To: ALL353 of 542
Version 0.2 done. Hoping to get far more battery life out of this one. I have a little test module running just sending it's battery state every 2 minutes and after 3 days it's only dropped ~0.004V

Moved a couple of cables around on the board, couple of optimisations to the code so it only sends if the temp has changed (or every 10 minutes). Switching the power to the radio and temp sensor off completely when sleeping. Only problem is the DS18B20 requires a little time to start up and read the temperature so it's running for almost 1 second when it wakes up.

And it /should/ work all the way down to 1.8V as it's now running at 4MHz. I'm surprised the radio works as I read it can be fussy with timings.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2015 22:09 by CHRISSS
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 02:38
To: ALL354 of 542
I just built this. Going to use it for testing various methods of powering my devices. Quick swap of a couple of leads and I can change between battery or step up or switched from an output.
EDITED: 26 Mar 2015 02:39 by CHRISSS
From: Chris (CHRISSS)26 Mar 2015 11:43
To: ALL355 of 542
Well that's no good. The temp module's battery is dropping quickly again. I estimate maybe 6 days from it. Thought it would do better. Think I might attach an LED to it so I can see how long it's waking for. Unfortunately pin 13 doesn't work because the SPI uses it.
From: ANT_THOMAS26 Mar 2015 11:56
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 356 of 542
I bought an ATMega328p chip a while back to try and make a barebones board but couldn't get it working. Also, the price of the parts was far more than buying a Nano or Pro Mini so it seemed a little pointless.

I have seen some people running strip down boards off button cells for a very long time, usually only transmitting something occasionally though.

I might try a 433 MHz transmitter on a temp sensor setup to see how well that works.

http://jeelabs.org/tag/lowpower/