Arduino

From: 99% of gargoyles look like (MR_BASTARD)20 Jan 2015 08:54
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 202 of 542
The banana peel's a nice touch. Is it just for decoration, or does it function when you wire it up?
From: Chris (CHRISSS)20 Jan 2015 09:21
To: 99% of gargoyles look like (MR_BASTARD) 203 of 542
I use it for wiping off the flux after soldering.
From: ANT_THOMAS20 Jan 2015 09:59
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 204 of 542
That reminds me, I could do with some female header pins.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)20 Jan 2015 10:47
To: ANT_THOMAS 205 of 542
You're welcome. I might need some more soon. Might order ssome right angle ones as well.
From: koswix20 Jan 2015 22:33
To: ALL206 of 542
Making a floppy organ. I know it's bindun etc. but I still think they're pretty cool.

Got a bunch of drives from my brothers work and just started working how to play with them.

So far got the stepping and direction sussed, so that's nice as that's basically all I need. Just need to get my head around interrupts to drive multiple drives at once.

Also, it's not being driven by an Arduino: it's using an mbed which is a cool little arm based Dev board.

It lives!: http://youtu.be/PoT8VbaLp4g

Incidentally, the lecturer, who let's me use the lab space for silly projects, his first proper job after graduating was to design a floppy disc controller IC at Siemens (for Western Digital, strangely enough). He was dead excited at seeing my stack of floppy drives (yes, john) but then seemed a bit disappointed that none of them had his chip in them.
From: graphitone20 Jan 2015 22:57
To: koswix 207 of 542
I think your organ needs a little tuning. That sounds horrible.
From: koswix20 Jan 2015 23:51
To: graphitone 208 of 542
Definitely needs tuning. That was just random frequency/button pressing.
From: graphitone21 Jan 2015 10:25
To: koswix 209 of 542
<cynic>

So, a top ten hit then?

</cynic>
From: koswix21 Jan 2015 13:45
To: graphitone 210 of 542
I wont accept anything less than number 1.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)23 Jan 2015 02:57
To: ALL211 of 542
Kos for number 1 :D

I now have this:


connected to this:


so I can fly my quadcopter using my Taranis! Amazing stuff the Arduinos can do :D

I will get around to doing a better job of the wiring, making it a more permanent arrangement so I can attach it to my transmitter without felling like all the wires are going to snap off.

The Taranis powers a 3.3V regulator which powers the Mini and the Transceiver. Little voltage divider with 2 resistors to drop the PPM output of the transmitter to a safe level. And a USBASP device to flash a hex file.
EDITED: 23 Jan 2015 03:05 by CHRISSS
Attachments:
From: ANT_THOMAS23 Jan 2015 23:57
To: ALL212 of 542
My parts from China are trickling in.

White LED strips and transistors arrived today which gave me something to play with.

A quick PWM fading test



Then adding them to thr timed and LDR control LEDs.

The LED strips flicker a bit too much when dimmed. Not sure if that's because they are being powered by the batteries, the strips are too long or because they struggle with the low PWM load.

From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Jan 2015 00:29
To: ANT_THOMAS 213 of 542
Awesome. I like fading LEDs :)

What do you have in between the arduino and LEDs? Is that an LED driver or sommat? 
From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Jan 2015 00:30
To: ALL214 of 542
And here is a video of my X4 controlled with my Taranis

From: ANT_THOMAS24 Jan 2015 00:43
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 215 of 542
12V power from the battery pack and a TIP120 transistor for each strip.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Jan 2015 01:01
To: ANT_THOMAS 216 of 542
Gotcha. 

My LD strips in th bdroom dfinitly flickr whn thy are dimmd. Not too noticabl whn looking at them but if you move you eyes around or wav things in front of thm it's easy to spot.

(Not to Milko: th "E" on my laptop kyboard has stoppd working proprly so all my input mthods ar now unrliabl :O )
EDITED: 24 Jan 2015 01:02 by CHRISSS
From: ANT_THOMAS24 Jan 2015 17:04
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 217 of 542
Cut a few bits of the LED strips and played with those.

Need to wait for the Shift Registers to arrive to really test things properly.

Added a push button to change between modes

World clock
Fading
Pre-set brightness

From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Jan 2015 18:28
To: ANT_THOMAS 218 of 542
Cool, nice work. Did the smaller strips work better with the battery powering them? Couldn't see the flickering in the video. I hadn't even thought about using those strips with the Arduino.

Have you got a resistor connected through that button? No need for it if you set the pin as INPUT_PULLUP.

Actually how noticeable is the flicker when the strips are dimmed low? I'm wondering if maybe using one of these could make my bedroom lights less flickery, the PWM frequency is around 500Hz.
From: ANT_THOMAS24 Jan 2015 18:54
To: Chris (CHRISSS) 219 of 542
Still flickering, but I'll see what they're actually like when I get the shift registers and mains power supply. Though I would've thought that batteries would give a smoother DC supply in comparison to a mains adapter doing a conversion.

I am currently using a resistor as I've stolen a bit of the code from elsewhere to switch between modes.

I want to make the button press also kill the current loop as well as change mode because currently it has to wait for the existing loop to finish then the mode changes. Problem with that is I might have a decent length delay of maybe 60 seconds on the timezone mode to prevent too much changing of intensity due to the LDR. Waiting upto 60 seconds to change from the timezone mode would be annoying.
From: Chris (CHRISSS)24 Jan 2015 19:10
To: ANT_THOMAS 220 of 542
Is it just the PWM flicker, not there when brighter? I bought a LED driver for my lights. It came with a shitty transformer that made a horrible buzzing sound and lots of people on Amazon had said the transformer had blown up. I don't really know if I needed a LED driver with the lights or a normal transformer would have been ok with the bits that come with them.

The INPUT_PULLUP works the same but the values for detecting are opposite, so low for closed and high for open so you'd have to swap them if using someone's code with a pulldown resistor.

You probably want a timer/counter instead of a delay. Check each time the loop function runs that a certain time has passed and change values or do something. That way you can also check button presses regularly. If that makes sense.
EDITED: 24 Jan 2015 20:21 by CHRISSS
From: Chris (CHRISSS)25 Jan 2015 22:19
To: ALL221 of 542
Fixed the laptop. A bit of insulation from one of the wires had lodged itself under the E key.

I opened up the control box for my lights and that had an Atmel chip in it. It also has huge solder pads for the 3 transistors but the one soldered to the pads are tiny and only just touch the corners.